30-Apr-2022
Just one ferry stop from Balat, but on the other side of the Golden Horn, is Haskoy.
This area used to be one of the most significant Jewish districts in Constantinople. Specific influxes occurred in the 15th century, when Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain and Portugal were welcomed by Bayezid II, and in the 16th century with the arrival of Jews displaced from Eminonu by the building of the Yeni Camii.
Not a lot remains of the seven synagogues that once operated in this area. The Esgher Synagogue, which became a cafe, was tucked away behind fences, so maybe some further repurposing is under way. Otherwise, courtesy of this helpful map, we located these:
The remains of the Mayor Synagogue
The Parmakkapi Synagogue, the most important one in the area in the early 20th century
One of several cats we talked to this morning
The Maalem Synagogue. In 2019, according to Niko, it was the only remaining active synagogue
For more on the fascinating history of the Jewish community in Istanbul, see this article by Ulgen Ozgul, who concludes like this: "It is a fact that there has been a flow of emigration from the Turkish Jewish minority to Israel in recent years. According to the leaders of the community, the reasons are various. However, better opportunities for higher education and job opportunities for the young generation are stated to be the primary ones. A sense of insecurity due to the recent political atmosphere may be another. Whatever the reason, we hope that they will not forget Istanbul for Istanbul will not forget them…"
As the gate was open, we nosed our way into the grounds of the Aya Paraskieva Greek Orthodox Church. A little haven of green and tranquility:
We rounded off the morning with a visit to the gardens of Aynalikavak Kasri, and (as it was a nice private place) tea and cakes.
By way of a change, we took the ferry back to Ayvansaray, the next neighbourhood up from Balat. Here, too, there are Greek churches sheltering behind high walls and gates:
A bit more wall
Much food for thought...