144902
03-May-2022

We've done some nice early walks over the last few days. Sunday morning is generally quiet anyway, and this particular Sunday was the last day of Ramadan. An excellent day for a cistern hunt, we decided. No, not cisterns as in toilets. Cisterns as in huge water storage facilities.

Constantinople had little in the way of fresh water sources, so its population depended on a system of aqueducts and cisterns, the remains of which now count "among the most impressive Byzantine structures of modern Istanbul".

We toured three, in each of which the old stone walls are clearly visible.

First up, the Cistern of Aetius. This is now a sports stadium, which gives some indication of this reservoir's humongous size:

aetius1

aetius2

The Cistern of Mocius, also enormous, houses a park and various sports facilities:

mocius1

mocius2

mocius3

mocius4

We spent a fair while watching the antics of this gorgeous little character:

kitty1

kitty2

Finally, the Cistern of Aspar, now another recreational facility:

aspar1

aspar2

aspar3

Pictures along the way:

minaret

woodenmosque

ataturk

domes

monument1

monument2

house

There are three public holidays this week, to mark the end of Ramadan. Today is the second of them.

Yesterday, the streets were busy, with people heading for the mosques, and thronging the cafes.

But our destination was the Arch of Theodosius, which is pretty much back in tourist territory, and therefore always alive with people.

"The only known monumental arch in Constantinople", this was situated in the Forum of Theodosius. It was completed by 393, as "part of a continuous effort in Late Antiquity Constantinople to rival Rome". It was probably destroyed in an earthquake.

arch1

arch2

arch3

arch4

Lovely things on the way there and back:

roof

pigeons

gate

cats

catbox



On the way home yesterday, we also armed ourselves with sweeties for the local children (on the Ramadan holiday, it's a custom for children to ring neighbours' doorbells to solicit sweet treats):

ramadansweeties

Today was surprisingly cool, with no sun, intermittent rain showers, and temperatures no higher than 13 degrees. Wrapped up in lots of layers yet again, we taxied back to Gulhane Park to see the Column of the Goths, which we'd somehow missed on our last visit. The name derives from its inscription, which is hard to decipher, but which apparently commemorates a successful campaign against said Goths. It is generally thought to have been erected either by Claudius II "Gothicus", who reigned from 268-70, or by Constantine I, who was at the helm from 306-37.

goths1

goths2

There are other picturesque remains nearby:

columnhead

columns

On the walk home:

palace&tramline

gate
The gate of Istanbul's oldest high school

As we'd been moving (and climbing hills, as you're always doing in Istanbul), it was just about warm enough to sit outside to have tea and borek. But back home we've needed the heating on again... Wah... Weird weather. It was only a few days ago that we were walking around in just shirts...