Both in quantity and in quality, Fukuoka's temples have massively exceeded my expectations.

This is Jotenji Temple, originally founded in 1241, and these monuments to the founder of the temple are first thing to strike you:


Here is the information from the various signboards, which together form a little ode to cultural transfer:

"When he returned from Sung China in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi brought with him the skill of milling, as well as the recipes for yokan (sweet bean jelly), manju, udon, and soba. This monument is to mark his great achievement in teaching Japan these recipes and milling techniques, and the contribution he made to the development of Japan's dietary culture."

"When Yazaemon came back from Sung China with Shoichi Kokushi in 1241, he brought back methods to make textiles, somen noodles, fragrances and so on."

"When setting out for his Zen missionary work, Shoichi Kokushi stopped by a tea house where the owner showed him very warm hospitality. Delighted by his kindness, Shoichi Kokushi taught him the recipe for manju (steamed sweet buns) that he had acquired in China, and handwrote a sign saying 'Onmanju Dokoro' (place of manju)."

Aside from this inspiring history, however, the temples constitute a wonderful oasis of calm, beauty, and birdsong in the middle of the city. On a bright winter's day, with strong light and dark shadow, they're exquisite:





















Tochoji has a very imposing seated Buddha (over 16 metres tall). You're not allowed to take photos, but this is the entrance:


Behind the Buddha you can find the "path from hell to heaven". After passing some graphic depictions of the torments of hell (reminiscent of Singapore's Haw Par Villa), you enter total darkness: "In the middle of the path, it will be pitch black, but you can see a picture of paradise as you go. There is also a ring in the center of the road. It is said that if you touch it, you can go to heaven." I was too disconcerted and disoriented by the pitch black to see either the picture of paradise or the ring... No heaven for me then...

After lunch, our final visit was the Kushida Shrine (Shinto, this one, rather than Buddhist). This was very busy with New Year's visitors, many of them carrying arrows (called hamaya), which have demon-repelling properties. Nigel suggested we buy one to wave at our bank when we get home... I think we should get two, so we have one to spare for the insurance company as well.

At the entrance you can see one of the floats that are used for the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, a festival held in July:





People are back at work today, but -- as evidenced by the busy shrines and the ubiquitous bamboo symbols -- the feeling of New Year is still very much with us: