21-Jan-2023
You don't have to go far here to find Chinese art and culture.
The "Spectacles Bridge", for example, was constructed using Chinese techniques:
Then there are Nagasaki's signature dishes:
Sara udon, which is a similar kind of thing, but involves crispy noodles and a light gravy
(Both these dishes came from Ringer Hut, by the way, which is a chain, but offers very good value, and also the opportunity to customize your noodle portion.)
We're staying in the Shinchi area, which is where the first Chinese settlement was situated. In 1689, however, a second Chinese quarter was built. This locality, which was known as Tojin Yashiki, accommodated -- well, "confined" is actually a better term -- Chinese merchants and sailors, and it was set up with the aim of controlling smuggling.
Back in the day, it was a heavily guarded area, inhabited solely by men. The only women allowed inside were the Japanese sex workers from the nearby "pleasure district", and they weren't allowed to stay overnight. Residents were allowed out of the compound to visit nearby temples -- but they were accompanied by guards.
A map of the area as it was
On our way to Tojin Yashiki, we came across this memorial to the women who worked in the "Maruyama Pleasure Quarters". I'm not sure we should still use that euphemism
Remnants of the former moat: "In order to completely cut the Tojin-Yashiki off from the outside world it was surrounded first by a mud and tile wall, then a moat which was partly filled with water and partly dry, and finally a stretch of empty land was enclosed by a bamboo fence"
"Resident Chinese" (descendants of settlers who had arrived generations ago) provided liaison between the inhabitants of Tojin Yashiki and the government. When Nagasaki opened up to international trade in 1859, of course, the area lost its raison d'etre.
It's still an interesting enclave to walk round, though, especially on the eve of Chinese New Year, when various preparations were afoot in the temples:
This building dates from 1906, but the earlier Tenkodo shrine was constructed in 1736 by citizens of Nanjing. Their goal was to enshrine the goddess Mazu, and pray for safe voyages
Atmospheric...
Given that we're missing Lunar New Year back home, it's been nice to catch at least some of the razzmatazz here.