This place is just so picturesque... Makes-your-head-swivel, view-round-every-corner, can't-stop-snapping picturesque.






There are a fair few tourists, not surprisingly, and every now and then a wave of cruise-ship passengers comes sloshing through. But they stick pretty much to the big-ticket items, and it's really easy to avoid them (at least at this time of year).

It's fairly remarkable, given its charm and obvious popularity, that the little streets of Bari's old town have remained so normal. Near the Basilica di San Nicola, there's a bit of a souvenir concentration. But elsewhere, old ladies still sit in the sun outside their open front doors (which sport pretty curtains to ward off prying eyes). Little delicatessens and cheese shops thrive. Kids kick their balls around the old squares. Locals career round on bicycles as though they know every corner like the back of their hand.






After second breakfast, our photographic wanderings eventually took us to the Cathedral of San Sabino.


The church dates back to the 12th century, but it's built on top of even older constructions, the remains of which can be seen in the underground museum.












In the crypt can be found the relics of Saint Columba of Sens. In answer to the question of why this Spanish-born, largely French-venerated saint ended up at the bottom of Italy, this source says, "According to tradition, her relic was translated from France to the Cattedrale di San Sabino in Bari, Apulia, in the eighteenth century by a group of Vincentians fleeing religious persecution. In Bari, Santa Colomba is invoked against fire, drought and other natural disasters." But details are sketchy.





There's another major saintly transfer associated with Bari -- this time with the Basilica di San Nicola. St Nicholas lived out his fourth-century life in what is now Turkey, but his remains were brought to Italy (accounts of the motives vary). Some ended up in Bari, and some in Venice.







Russians are very fond of this saint, it seems, and it was a majorly big deal when some of the Bari bone fragments were lent to Russia. We witnessed some of this enthusiasm while we were visiting the saint's tomb in the crypt. A steady flow of Russian Orthodox adherents halted before the shrine, to pray, read liturgy, cross themselves, and touch the tiles in front of the casket. Some were given permission to go inside the enclosure, kneel directly in front of the tomb, and kiss the icon at the back. We looked on, very moved at this fervent invocation, able only to guess at the dramas of life that might have impelled it.



St Nicholas has a number of patronages, including sailors and ships, so he's definitely a saint to get to know better before our long ferry trip on Thursday...

Photographed out, we adjourned for a really nice lunch at La Cantina dello Zio. You get a trio of sustaining antipasti (taralli, olives, and bruschetta), a main, a beer, and a cup of coffee for EUR 8 if you have the piadina (flat bread folded around ham, cheese, and tomato), or EUR 10 if you have the orecchiette (the ear-shaped, eggless pasta that the Puglia region is famous for). It was all very tasty, and pretty good value, we thought.



Our evening walk tonight has had a very practical orientation -- namely, sussing out the arrangements at the port (where you can leave luggage, where you check in, etc). We're still not clear on all points. In what is supposedly the age of information it amazes me how much you're left in the dark...

More generally, a lot of logistics management is required for our trip at the moment. The Turks have changed their train provision for one of our routes. The Georgians likewise. So we need to respond to that. We still have several key train links to book (and bookings open only a certain number of days beforehand, so you always have to remain aware of what to book next). Our Athens accommodation provider seems to need the same information an infinite number of times. Etc...

But hey, we'll figure it out. And, just over a week into our journey, it still feels as though the rewards are far greater than the hassles. Long may that continue.