Day 22 (17 June)

The island of Chios has a turbulent history...

According to tradition, the first king of the island was Enopion ("wine-drinker"), son of Dionysos (god of wine) and Ariadne (daughter of Midas). Jason the Argonaut stopped by here, too...

It was the arrival of the Ionians that really put Chios on the historical map. It became quite influential, both materially and artistically.

But the death of Alexander corresponded with a period of decline. The island became part of the Roman empire, and then the Byzantine empire. Over the course of the centuries, it was ruled by the Venetians, the Genoans, and the Turks. It generally prospered. But a rebellion against the Ottoman Sultan resulted in a horrific massacre in 1822 (the one depicted in the famous painting by Eugene Delacroix).

The few islanders who survived rebuilt their city 10 years later. But another act of rebuilding was required later in the century after the devastating earthquake of 1881.

The castle, in whose embrace we currently live, became the walled heart of the town during the time of the Genoans, in the 14th century (although records show that the site was fortified much earlier).

It's a rather magical place, despite its heavy history.








We particularly like the area round the restored Turkish Baths. This traditional hamman, which dates back to the 18th century, is hugely atmospheric. Soaring arches and domes, geometric skylights (across which the wind gurgles like water), and marble and tiled floors give it a wonderful elegance.








You can walk the bit of the castle wall near the Baths. The sea is right beneath you.

We sat for a while in a gap in the wall. Idyllic... Bright sun, refreshing breeze. In front, beautifully coloured stone. To the right, the susurration of the sea. To the left, the domes of the hammam, with the thin-skinned mountains beyond.

It was one of those moments -- unplanned, unanticipated -- that will remain with us for a long time.





This was the kind of day that needed to be rounded off with another bottle of Nemean agiorgitiko.

Day 23 (18 June)

Outside the confines of the castle, there are many more reminders of Chios's Ottoman past:



But today our goal was Karyes, a village about 15 minutes' bus ride from Chios. The road was spectacular, all curves and camber. From the "centre", where the bus halted, we climbed an impossibly steep track to get unobstructed views. Just the sighing of the wind in the trees, and the tinkling of a goat bell or two...






We returned to the village, walked the picturesque streets, had Greek coffee in the cafe that had just opened its doors for the day, talked to a couple of locals, and caught the bus back down. An unpretentious outing, but a really pleasant one.