The Philippines is nothing if not archipelagic... In fact, it reportedly consists of no fewer than 7,641 islands. So pretty much any journey requires the crossing of water.

There are various ways to get from Cebu (on the island of Cebu) to Dumaguete (on the island of Negros). But for our trip yesterday, we chose to do two fast-ferry journeys (changing at Tagbilaran on the island of Bohol -- where, many years ago, we visited tarsiers and the Chocolate Hills).

The weather was overcast, so we didn't get the blue radiance and trails of flying fish that we got seven years ago. But we still got sprinkles of sea sequins, where the light caught the water. And the clouds were awesome. It's such a big world, when viewed from a small boat.


We left Cebu at 9.20, and were installed in our pleasant Airbnb apartment in the Dumaguete burbs by 14.30. So it's a pretty quick journey.




Haunted, though, by memories of our less than pleasant fast-ferry journey to Karimunjawa last year, we had dosed ourselves with anti-seasickness tablets. When we bought them, we asked for the "non-drowsy" variety. But we kind of wonder if the pharmacist misheard, and thought we were covertly trying to acquire sleeping pills.

Because, seriously, these tablets would have knocked out a bull elephant...

I was a complete dormouse all day yesterday. And more than 24 hours after taking them, we're still pretty zombie-like.

Nevertheless, we have been awake enough to register that Dumaguete is very pleasant.

It has a reputation for attracting 1) retirees (the Philippine Retirement Authority -- yes, there is one of those -- named the city "best place to retire in the Philippines" for 2018); and 2) students (it is home to four universities and seven colleges).

I guess this makes for a fairly mellow combo. Throw in sea, mountains, greenery, and public art, and you get an easy-going and attractive place:













We're going to be here for a few days, so I look forward to further exploration.