So, Lisbon is really lovely.

A gem of a capital city.

But though it's only February, and though we don't hang out in the really intense spots, there does come a time when you tire of FTs (fellow tourists).

Allow me a quick digression here:

I'm freely admitting that we are tourists too. We're all in this together... But there are definitely some qualitative distinctions to be made.

Is it really a good idea to trundle your stupid little wheely suitcase down the cobbled streets of the old town in the MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT...? We could all hear you a mile away... Buy a rucksack, dammit. Rucksacks are quiet, great on steps, and good for biffing people with (not that I do that, of course).

Similarly, is it really a good idea to shout and swear at the bartender because he's quickly taking someone's payment before dealing with your party's no doubt very difficult and complicated order?

And when you're taking photos of houses that you find beautiful -- and I admit I do it, too, though I don't know if I should -- at least try to do it discreetly... Don't invite three of your party to climb the steps to the front door and strike poses for the camera while hollering at the tops of their voices...

Most tourists, I think, are like us. They try hard to do their thing without getting too much in the way of local life. But some tourists are frankly obnoxious. I don't regard them as fellow-anything.

OK, where was I?

Ah yes, escaping tourists...

Heading across the Tagus on one of the little ferries is a great option. Over there, it's actually not Lisbon any more, and most tourists don't have time to make the expedition.


If you get the ferry from Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas, you can then make your way round the coast to the big statue of Christ Rei that you've already photographed from the other bank.

Getting the ferry is easy, providing you avoid the rush-hour (we went on Sunday, which works well), and have a green Viva Viagem card (the green one is valid on both sides of the river).

These cards are indispensable for getting around the city, and are quite good value. But they're undeniably complicated. Sometimes you need to validate the ticket both when you get on and when you get off; sometimes you visit the validator only when boarding; sometimes you need to get a specific destination added to the ticket before validating...

I seriously think one of the best things we could do for the environment is to standardize the way public transport works... I'm all for diversity, but does every city really need such different ideas of how people should use its systems? Could we not have a bit more standardization, at least regionally?

Anyway, you're in Cacilhas, and you've looked around, and it's too early for a fish lunch.



So the next thing to do is walk round the coast and up the hill to the old quarter of Almada. Opinions on this walk vary enormously, because the first part leads you past a number of abandoned wharves and warehouses. One (otherwise very reliable) commentator dislikes what she identifies as a general feeling of "neglect". Another, conversely, finds the dilapidation "charming".

We certainly enjoyed the walk. In the early sections, there were enough people walking, jogging, and fishing to mitigate any feeling of abandonment. It just felt interesting.











Up on top of the hill, you'll find the Casa da Cerca, a lovely little complex with art exhibitions, gardens, views, and a cafe.











Almada's old town is picturesque. And, trust me, the lunchtime eating places will get going at mid-day. So don't, as we did, give up the hunt, despair of ever finding food again, and wedge yourself into the most crowded bakery/cafe in the entire place for coffee and a chocolate pastry.

Once fuelled up, in whatever manner, it's an easy walk up the hill to the Rio-inspired Christ statue.





Here you'll meet your FTs again... And yes, the quest for photos will make them clamber up onto the statue of Mary, and plane their arms to imitate the Christ figure (because no-one's ever done that before, right...?). And you kind of feel these things are a tad disrespectful (you would be strongly discouraged from acting this way in a Buddhist temple in Thailand, for example). But then you wonder whether you're getting just way too strait-laced and intolerant, and need to lighten up, especially as this has been the only tourist-heavy bit of the day...

If you just miss the 101 bus back to Cacilhas, as we did, you can walk a little way down the hill, and pick up the tram, which also deposits you back at Cacilhas ferry terminal.

Many Lisbon stations come complete with supermarkets, so once you've crossed over again to Cais do Sodre, you can buy some more of those bargain strawberries for tea...

Another really nice, untouristy experience is a trip to Setubal, which we tackled today. It's only about 50 minutes away on the train, but the timing is a bit awkward, as rush-hour on the Lisbon Metro goes on till quite late in the morning, and the trains to Setubal from Sete Rios station go only once an hour.

We just missed one, but whiled away the intervening time at the free bit of the zoo (where you can see adorable white-bellied parrots, who complement their bright yellow trousers and green cloaks with the sweetest woolly waistcoats).

On the train, you finally get to cross that bridge that you've seen from so many angles already...

Setubal's old town is very picturesque, with more of those classically Portuguese narrow streets and tiled houses.







Like Cacilhas, this place is famous for the fish restaurants down by the waterfront. But we had lunch in town, at the Restaurante do Escondidinho. It was a very simple "menu do dia", but all the components were really well done, and for our EUR 8 each, we got a lot of food. Soup, olives, a carafe of nice white wine, a generous main (one squid, one chicken), and a nice little dessert (one pineapple, one chocolate mousse).


What was really nice, today and yesterday, was that no-one leapt in to speak English to us. Poor though my Portuguese is, it obviously did the job, and no-one felt they could do notably better.

After lunch, we walked. As we do. Along the seafront, up the hill to the converted windmills, and back via more of those pretty, sunny streets.











To avoid the busy period on the way back, we caught the train just before 4 pm, giving us a bit more than four hours to lunch and explore. Really, you need longer (especially as, with more time, you can take the boat across to the peninsula opposite). And ideally, you don't want to visit on a Monday, because that's when the historical sites are shut.

All in all, these factors would make Setubal a Good Place To Come Back To.

It's really on the money as a low-key locality, where you could trundle round quietly and unobtrusively, doing local things, and learning some more Portuguese.

Before the tourist wave overtakes this spot too...

Lisbon is not on this scary list of over-popular places.

But if it's not careful, it will be... It's a conundrum for everyone who loves to travel: how can we enjoy without wrecking...?