I've loved being in Kuching for the Chinese New Year period. Of course, these celebrations are evident all over Malaysia, but residing in this very Chinese part of Kuching has made it all so much more palpable.

On the morning of CNY eve, Monday, Jalan Padungan (our primary breakfast haunt) was busier than ever. Squadrons of roast chickens rowed themselves up ready for boxing; fresh flowers spilled out of shops that aren't usually open so early; and focused shoppers homed in on last-minute items for the big dinner.

Our usual laksa lady was still in action (but offering just one size, one option, and one price: "MYR8: Happy New Year").

The hairdresser was charging double (MYR 56 -- wah!!). But what to do? You can't have your hair cut once the festivities have started...

We took ourselves off for a long walk after that, but by the time we were heading back for lunch, the roads were clogging, and the shops were shutting.

In the evening, after watching the 10 pm fountain show (was there more red than usual, to suit the season?), and doing our accustomed tour of the night streets, we headed for the Old Bazaar Cafe. Here, with a drink and a plate of fries, we sat watching the bustle of the temple opposite, where worshippers were sending up clouds of incense, and feeding vast piles of paper offerings to the insatiable burner.





Midnight duly ushered in the Earth Pig. Once the wobbly pole of firecrackers had been safely hoisted, the Old Bazaar joined the rat-a-tat of explosions audible all over the neighbourhood. Cordite and incense scented our walk home.

On Tuesday, the first day of CNY, our walk through Reservoir Park was punctuated by distant bursts of firecrackers and lion-dance drums. The normally bustling Carpenter Street was bizarrely quiet, with the exception of the busy temples. Drifts of firecracker-wrappers turned the pavements vermilion.


Very sweetly, the hotel provided a little box of goodies to celebrate the occasion.


And of course, no CNY would be complete without a Jackie Chan movie, so on Wednesday, the second day of the holiday, we went to watch The Knight of Shadows: Between Yin and Yang. Another in that great tradition of Chinese demon-hunter movies, it's fast-paced, visually striking, and overall very enjoyable.


So, let's go boldly forward into the year of our porcine friend. Onwards and upwards...